Notes on chocolate: not all smoked things taste horrid …

Generally speaking, I’m not a fan of smoked things. In my opinion the smoking ruins a perfectly good product.

While I’ve got your attention, and talking not of chocolate for a moment, Waitrose has started doing smoked scamorza. Scamorza is like a drier mozzarella and quite delicious. Smoked, I hate it and I want to use the power of this column to make Waitrose stock the normal scamorza.

Back to chocolate. Smoked chocolate? I had held back two bars of Solkiki because I really felt I had to be in the mood for them. I was sure they’d be awful. But the other day, after a week of not eating chocolate (I know!) I thought I’d give them a try and was gobsmacked by how good they were.

The first was its Bourbon 64, £9, a dark (vegan) milk. I nibbled on it like a nervous 1950s starlet, in a corset, with her contract about to be renewed. Cautiously. The smoke wasn’t strong, just added incredible depth and rendered it – dare I use such pedestrian words? – really tasty.

The second was the Olive Wood (Smoked) 62, £9, another dark (vegan) milk. Much more smoky on the first hit and the ‘linger’. So rewarding.

These would make great gifts for someone – maybe you? – who loves chocolate and wants something new.

One of my friends who tasted it said it reminded him of 1980s clubs where you had a fag and a bar of chocolate. But I’m pretty sure chocolate back then was nowhere near as good.